 PHYSICAL DEMANDS |  ENERGY EXPENDITURE |  MACRO/MICRO NUTRIENTS |
|---|---|---|
 COMPETITION PLAN |
Rock climbing is a strength sport with explosive movements as they travel up natural or manufactured walls. Climbers compete indoors and outdoors. Outdoor climbing has additional challenges including humidity, altitude, wind, and psychological stress from the unpredictability of surfaces and weather. Rock climbing as a sport is growing exponentially as athletes of all ages are learning the different techniques of climbing.
Competition rock climbing is divided into three main categories: Speed or sport climbing, lead climbing, and bouldering. The US Olympic Committee added climbing as a sport during the Tokyo 2022 Olympics. Climbing is new to the sporting world, but athletes have been mountaineering, lead climbing, and expeditions for decades. For this review, the research is focused on climbing as a competitive sport. Information on mountaineering and multi-day pitch will be covered on the multi-day tours page.
NUTRITION FOR
ROCK CLIMBING
Physical Demands of Rock Climbing
Research on the anthropometrics of climbing is sparse and not well-researched. Saul et al., (2019) studied the biometrics of advanced and elite climbers. They categorized the athletes into two categories: large mountaineering and sport climbing. When looking at muscle groups utilized for climbing the flexor digitorum (in the hand) was a predictable measure of strength and success for athletes. Elite climbers had higher measures of handgrip strength using a dynamometer and longer finger hold times. The most successful and well-trained athletes had improved blood lactate recovery time and longer time to fatigue when climbing. When climbers finished the route, the elite climbers had lower blood lactate levels than recreational athletes. They compare climbers of all levels and wingspan, height-to-weight ratios, and BMI did not significantly change when comparing climbers' competition levels.
Results from a questionnaire by Michael et al. (2019) climbers suggested that nutrition was an important part of climbing and maintaining leanness improved their climbing due to power-to-mass ratios. If a climber is heavier they need more strength to stay balanced on the wall and handgrip strength. When climbers optimize the power-to-mass ratio they potentially can delay fatigue and promote fast recovery between large movements or sessions on the wall ( Journal of sport and exercise science, 2021).
Counter to the climber's desire of low body mass to optimize power-to-mass ratios for climbing, climbers' physique measurements do not make significant climbers’ ability levels. Vujic et al., (2022) measured ice climbers and sport climbers BMR, height, and weight. They only noted differences between the athletes were in flexibility and sport climbers had stronger calves for balancing on small rock holds and surfaces. Sport climbers have slightly higher grip strength and finger endurance than lead climbers. The average height and weight were similar for all climbers. The height median range was 176.2- 180.5cm and the weight median range was 70.4kg. When studying climbers, the majority of climbers tend to be very lean to maintain a low power-to-mass ratio (Vujic er al., 2022).
Energy Expenditure
Depending on the competition style, the climbing events can take 10 seconds to 8 minutes. Speed climbing events are commonly indoors and have manufactured rocks or preset routes. Some large moves between holds are very explosive and use high amounts of power during overhangs and steep angled walls. There are typically 10 holds and climbers can complete the climb in 10 seconds or less. These athletes are primarily using the ATP phosphagen system and they take long rests between climbs for recovery. Competition lead climbing is a longer events, typically on a 15 meter wall and they need to complete the climb in eight minutes or less. Bouldering competition's event time and intensity falls in the middle of speed climbing and lead climbing. The climbs are completed in under four minutes with long periods of rest in between climbing sessions.They are on 6-meter walls, and they complete a route while moving more horizontally on the wall. For any style of climbing having the ability to maintain finger and elbow flexion for long periods of climbing increases the likelihood of a high score in the completion of the climb. (Michael et al, 2018).
The typical rate of energy expenditure is 10-11 kcal/minute of climbing ( Journal of sports and exercise science, 2021).
Sport rock climbers primarily use creatine phosphate via the ATP phosphocreatine system. Creatine phosphate is stored in the skeletal muscle provide energy during fast and explosive movements. When creatine phosphate is depleted after a few big moved the utilizes glucose for energy (“Position of the American Dietetic Association, Dietitians of Canada, and the American College of Sports Medicine: Nutrition and Athletic Performance,” 2009).
Click the video below for more information on the ATP Phosphocreatine system:
(Forciea, 2015)
Anaerobic glycolysis rapidly metabolized glucose to pyruvate for energy without oxygen. This pathway supports climbers for 60-180 seconds. During high intensities energy is depleted when lactate builds and pyruvate is not recycled into the Kreb cycle. For longer lead climbs or multi-pitch climbs the intensity is lower and the body uses glucose via the oxidative pathway (“Position of the American Dietetic Association, Dietitians of Canada, and the American College of Sports Medicine: Nutrition and Athletic Performance,” 2009).
Click the video below for more information on anaerobic glycolysis:
(Tutorials, 2013)
Micronutrients and Macronutrients
More research needs to be completed on the macronutrient need of the sport of climbing. Since competitive climbing is less than 8 minutes it can be assumed athletes are primarily use carbohydrates for energy.
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Higher amounts of carbohydrates before and after a training session or event will improve performance and recovery time.
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Competitive climbers carbohydrate intake is around 3-8 g/kg BM/day or 20-30 g/h during climbing sessions. Speed climbers should consider using liquid calories or calories that are easy to digest before an event or in between climbing bouts for rapid energy availability (Michael et al., 2019).
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There is no research on the benefits of fat or protein recommendation specifically for climbers.
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Athletes should follow general activities recommendations for protein and fat intake.
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If athletes are doing multi-day competition or multi-day pitches it is recommended to eat 0.8-1.2 g/kg bM/ day or 0.3g/kg at the end of the day for efficient recovery and muscle rebuilding.
Supplements
The culture of climbing encourages environmentally sustainable living and eating, which encourages pure and natural food selections. The elite athletes reported being aware of protein intake after a session of climbing and some use BCAAS after their training sessions (Journal of sport and exercise science, 2021). If climbers are on a food-restricted diet or vegan they may want to consider supplements for vitamins and minerals. Athletes should always attempt to intake vitamins and minerals from food before they add supplementation.
